The peptide serum haunts us. It is everywhere. And many brands try to convince us that they are a miracle anti-aging ingredient, putting them on par with Botox.
But my dear, in general, miracles don't exist. Especially in cosmetics, where if a new active ingredient is presented to us as the Holy Grail, the first thought is a calculated marketing ploy.
I'm not saying peptides are not beneficial ingredients for our skin. Because they are! Still, we have to be realistic: no ingredient eliminates all skin aging signs (well, except for the garden of youth). So let's set our expectations and remember that our overall routine is what matters most.
Today we will look into whether peptide serums work.
But first...
What are peptides?
Peptides are short chains of amino acids that serve as building blocks for proteins like collagen, elastin, and keratin. These proteins are responsible for skin structure, elasticity, and strength. Over the years, their production slows down. This leads to loss of elasticity, wrinkles, fine lines, a less smooth texture, and some dullness.
When peptides are applied to the skin as part of a moisturizer or facial serum, they act as little messengers, forcing skin cells to perform certain functions, such as building collagen and elastin. Unlike the proteins themselves, peptides are small enough to penetrate the skin barrier.
Will a peptide serum remove fine lines and wrinkles?
Existing research on topical application of peptides for skin shows that they can help the skin on several levels:
- Improves the skin's barrier function: our skin barrier needs to be healthy to protect against bacteria, UV rays, pollution, and other toxins. Peptides help us build a more substantial barrier.
- Reduces wrinkles: collagen boosting peptides can tighten the skin and lips, and when the skin becomes firmer and smoother, wrinkles and fine lines become less visible. Eye creams with peptides are great for this!
- Increases skin elasticity: peptides also form elastin fibers, another type of protein responsible for skin smoothness and elasticity.
- Anti-inflammatory function: peptides help relieve inflammation, repair damaged skin, and even skin tone.
Are there any specific peptides that I should get for my skincare routine?
There are hundreds of different peptides designed to improve the effectiveness of your skincare products. Some are derived from rice or oats, while others are synthetic (lab-created). Each serves a different function.
These types of amino acids fall into four main categories:
- Signal peptides
- Transporters
- Enzyme inhibitors
- Neurotransmitters
Usually, several active ingredients are combined in one product. You can read that it contains five peptides, 10 or 11...
Signal peptides communicate to skin cells to produce more collagen and elastin. Carrier peptides accelerate and improve wound healing. Enzyme inhibitor peptides are used to reduce collagen breakdown, and neurotransmitter peptides are included to smooth out wrinkles and fine lines.
At this point, there is more scientific evidence to support the effectiveness of signal and carrier peptides than enzyme inhibitors and neurotransmitters.
What skin type would benefit from the use of peptide products?
The skin type that benefits the most from topical peptides is mature skin. That's because over the years it loses its ability to produce structural proteins. Peptides "trick" the skin into believing it is younger by sending signals to increase its production of collagen and elastin. So in this way, peptide products are anti aging. They also have excellent moisturizing properties, as do proteoglycans (but we'll leave that topic for another day!).
How to introduce peptides into your facial:
Today, we pick up a rock and find hundreds of products that say "peptides" on the packaging. There are a few things to keep in mind to introducing this type of active ingredient into your anti-aging program.
First, peptides work better when paired with specific ingredients. Their best partners are antioxidants such as vitamin C, niacinamide and hyaluronic acid. Also, check the product's composition in question and make sure peptides are near the top of the ingredient list.
Lastly, be wary if a facial cleanser contains peptides. Any product that washes right off means your skin doesn't have time to absorb it. This is OK for other ingredients, but not peptides. It's better to look for them in the form of creams or serums that stay on your skin for several hours.
Do peptides replace lost collagen?
Peptides send signals to skin cells to replace lost collagen. They are like a store supervisor who rather than doing the work themselves is showing up to tell the staff what to do. Due to the small size of peptides, they quickly penetrate the skin for faster results. For this reason, it is essential to help our skin by applying them topically.
Do peptides improve and promote collagen production?
Although our skin cells produce collagen daily, it loses and reduces its production starting around 20. This is when we begin to notice the signs of aging, such as sagging skin, wrinkles, fine lines, bags under the eyes, etc.
Fortunately, peptides encourage our skin to produce more collagen and stay young.
Do copper peptides work the same as normal peptides?
Copper peptides are the number one active ingredient for stimulating collagen, a must for anti-aging skincare over 40 years old.
Dermatologists consider this ingredient one of the best anti-aging ingredients because of its ability to increase collagen production and enhance the effects of retinol.
Copper peptides responsible for maintaining the structure of the tissues appear in our site so that we do not suffer from sagging skin or deep expression lines. We will present their benefits and why they are necessary for your facial program.
Copper peptides belong to the carrier group of the four groups of anti-aging peptides (indicators, carriers, enzyme inhibitors, and neurotransmitter inhibitors). It is a tripeptide that binds to copper and delivers minerals to the dermis. The most famous one is GHK-Cu, which has an excellent antioxidant and collagen-boosting capacity, reducing collagen breakdown and increasing collagen. This is thanks to the citrus nature of copper, which combines superoxide dismutase and lysozyme. These incredible enzymes fight wrinkles and improve natural radiance, protection, density, and elasticity.
These types of peptides should be used daily to achieve visible changes and rejuvenation. However, it is recommended to use them at night to improve the results when the body is at its peak of cellular repair and renewal, allowing the ingredients to penetrate better and have a more prolonged effect on cellular regeneration. You can find them in many formulations, but the best option is to use them in serum and then add a creamy moisturizer or thick oil on top to ensure deep absorption.
Like vitamin C, copper peptides are susceptible to oxidation, so for maximum effectiveness, it is best to include them in an encapsulated product, which preserves them better and improves their absorption and effectiveness.
It is safe for all skin types and compatible with most ingredients, working particularly well with moisturizers such as hyaluronic acid, squalane, glycerin, vitamin E, or as a partner for retinol and derivatives that work synergistically to minimize the signs of aging by restoring cells and increasing collagen. Or use with niacinamide to brighten and strengthen the skin barrier to prevent photoaging, reduce blemishes and redness, and brighten skin tone.
Exceptions are vitamin C serums with a lower pH or products containing overly aggressive alpha hydroxy acids. These can break the amino acid chains that form peptides and reduce their effectiveness.
Don't delay your dose of copper peptides if you want to drastically improve your anti-aging skincare routine and see your complexion plump, taut, glowing, and youthful.
How to use peptides in your skincare routine.
There are so many products on the market that contain peptides that it can be hard to know where to start. Here's how to buy peptides and what to look out for.
Choose the right formula. You're better off choosing a product in long-term contact with your skin, such as a serum or moisturizer. For example, a face wash won't be as effective because it gets washed off.
Choose other ingredients wisely. Peptides combine well with other ingredients, including vitamin C, niacinamide (but don't use niacinamide and vitamin C together!), antioxidants, and hyaluronic acid. Using peptides with alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) can make them less effective.
Look at the label. Ideally, peptides should be at the top of the ingredient list. They may also look like "palmitoyl."
To sum up
Peptides are an important part of an anti-aging skincare routine and can help to drastically improve the appearance of your skin. Be sure to choose the right formula and other complementary ingredients to make the most of their benefits. peptides are a great way to improve the appearance of your skin and fight the signs of aging.
Do you have peptides in your skincare routine? What benefits have you seen? Let us know in the comments below!